Whenever I told people I was heading to Genoa (Genova), the most common response was, “Why not just head straight to the Amalfi Coast or Rome?” But after spending time here, I realized that ignoring this city is a huge mistake. Genoa isn’t just a transit point or a gritty port—it is one of Italy’s most authentic, soulful, and delicious secrets.
From the moment I stepped out of the station, I was greeted by a city of contrasts. On one side, you have the grand, marble-clad palaces of the “Street of Kings,” and on the other, a tangled web of medieval alleys where life hasn’t changed in centuries. It’s a place where the air smells like salty sea spray and fresh basil pesto, and where every corner feels like a scene from a vintage movie.Whenever I told people I was heading to Genoa (Genova), the most common response was, “Why not just head straight to the Amalfi Coast or Rome?” But after spending time here, I realized that ignoring this city is a huge mistake. Genoa isn’t just a transit point or a gritty port—it is one of Italy’s most authentic, soulful, and delicious secrets.
From the moment I stepped out of the station, I was greeted by a city of contrasts. On one side, you have the grand, marble-clad palaces of the “Street of Kings,” and on the other, a tangled web of medieval alleys where life hasn’t changed in centuries. It’s a place where the air smells like salty sea spray and fresh basil pesto, and where every corner feels like a scene from a vintage movie.
Table of Contents
1. Getting Lost in the “Caruggi” (The Old Town)
The first thing I did when I arrived in Genoa was put my phone in my pocket and let the city lead the way. The heart of Genoa is a labyrinth of narrow, winding alleys called “Caruggi.” This is one of the largest medieval historic centers in Europe, and it feels like a living, breathing time capsule.
As I wandered deeper into the maze, my GPS eventually gave up on me—the buildings are so tall and close together that the signals just can’t get through. But honestly? That was the best part. I found myself walking past ancient doorways and tiny shops where the scent of fresh basil was so strong it practically pulled me inside.
While I love the grand monuments when checking off the best things to do in Rome, there is something much more raw and authentic about the Caruggi. Seeing the laundry hanging between windows and hearing neighbors shout greetings across the narrow gaps made me feel like I was seeing the “real” Italy, far away from the usual tourist traps.
2. Walking Among Giants on Via Garibaldi
After exploring the narrow alleys, I stepped onto Via Garibaldi (the “Strada Nuova”), and the vibe shifted instantly. This UNESCO World Heritage street is home to the Palazzi dei Rolli—a row of breathtaking 16th-century palaces built by Genoa’s wealthiest families.
- The Experience: Walking here feels like being on a movie set. I spent my afternoon hopping between Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Bianco.
- The Art: Inside, you’ll find gold-leaf ceilings, marble staircases, and Renaissance masterpieces that rival the museums of the historic sites in Rome.
- Top Tip: Grab a “Museum Card.” It’s the cheapest way to see the interiors of multiple palaces without buying separate tickets.
While Naples is famous for its gritty energy, Via Garibaldi is all about pure, aristocratic elegance. It’s the perfect place to see how the “Lords of the Sea” once lived.
3. Exploring Porto Antico & The Aquarium
Next, I headed down to Porto Antico (the Old Harbor). Once a busy industrial port, it’s now a vibrant waterfront redesigned by the famous architect Renzo Piano. It’s the perfect spot to feel the sea breeze and grab a coffee by the docks.
- The Main Event: The Acquario di Genova is the star here. It’s one of the largest in Europe, and seeing the sharks and dolphins up close was a highlight of my day.
- Don’t Miss: The Bigo—a crane-like panoramic lift that gives you a 360-degree view of the harbor.
- The Vibe: It reminded me of the lively waterfronts I saw while exploring the best things to do in Mykonos, but with a unique Italian industrial twist.
4. Sunset at Boccadasse: The Most Photogenic Spot
If you follow me on Instagram, you know I can’t resist a colorful fishing village. Boccadasse is a short bus ride from the center, and it feels like a mini-Amalfi Coast tucked away in the city.
- My Routine: I grabbed a cone of artisanal gelato and sat on the pebble beach just as the sun started to dip.
- The Colors: The houses are painted in stunning shades of pink, yellow, and orange. If you loved the beaches on the Amalfi Coast, you will absolutely fall in love with this place.
- Traveler Tip: Stay for dinner! There are some incredible small seafood spots hidden in the alleys behind the beach.
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Here are the next two sections, focusing on the city’s spiritual heart and the legendary food scene, keeping it snappy and traveler-focused.
5. Cattedrale di San Lorenzo: The Zebra-Striped Wonder
As I walked through the city, the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo stopped me in my tracks. Its black-and-white striped marble exterior is iconic and uniquely Genoese.
- The Interior: Inside, the vibe is peaceful but grand. I was fascinated by the stories of the “Sacred Basin,” once believed to be the Holy Grail.
- A Strange Discovery: Look for the unexploded WWII bomb inside! It’s a miraculous piece of history that never went off, saving the cathedral.
- The Detail: The craftsmanship here is as intricate as anything I saw while visiting the best things to do in Rome.
6. The Food Guide: Focaccia & Pesto Paradise
I’ll be honest: I mostly came to Genoa for the food. This is the birthplace of Pesto, and eating it here ruined all other pestos for me forever.
- Focaccia Breakfast: I did what the locals do—dipped my plain, salty focaccia into my morning cappuccino. Sounds weird? Trust me, it’s life-changing.
- Trofie al Pesto: For lunch, I found a tiny trattoria in the back alleys. Fresh Trofie pasta with bright green, creamy pesto.
- Street Food: Don’t miss Farinata, a thin, savory pancake made from chickpea flour. It’s the perfect snack while walking between sights.
- Comparison: If you enjoyed the street food in Naples, Genoa’s bakery culture will be your new obsession.
7. The Best View in the City: Spianata Castelletto
Whenever I want to get my bearings in a new city, I look for the highest point. In Genoa, that’s Spianata Castelletto. It’s a stunning residential terrace that hangs over the historic center like a balcony.
- The Ride Up: I took the Ascensore Castelletto Levante, a beautiful Art Nouveau elevator. It felt like stepping into a Wes Anderson movie!
- The View: From the top, you can see the cruise ships in the harbor, the maze of rooftops, and the green hills surrounding the city.
- Traveler Tip: Go about 30 minutes before sunset. Watching the city lights flicker on while the sky turns purple is a memory I won’t soon forget. It reminded me of the panoramic views I found while exploring the best things to do in Athens.
8. Genoa as Your Gateway to the Riviera
One of the reasons I chose Genoa as a base is how easy it is to reach other dream destinations. The train station (Genova Brignole) connects you to the entire coast in minutes.
- Day Trips: You can easily hop on a train to Camogli or Santa Margherita.
- Festival Vibes: If you’re visiting in the spring, you’re just a short trip away from the famous Festival di Sanremo.
- Planning Your Route: Much like how I used Seville as a base to explore Spain, Genoa is the perfect starting point for an Italian Riviera road trip or train journey.
Conclusion
Genoa surprised me. It’s not a “polished” tourist city, and that’s exactly why I loved it. It’s a place of hidden elevators, secret bakeries, and palaces that take your breath away. If you’re looking for a destination that feels like the real Italy, put Genoa on your list before everyone else finds out about it!
